Deeper into Patagonia

Landing in El Calafate felt like landing in a small town in Utah, similar shades of brown, rolling hills, scrubby brush, not quite desert, but close. Two hours later we looking at the Perrito Moreno glacier, incredible! We stayed and cooked at Los Notros, the only hotel overlooking Lago Moreno and the glacier. Our collaboration with the chef, Juan Pablo, and was one of the best. We served prawns and king crab from Antarctica, raspberries and Calafate berries in the summer pudding! Hiking the glacier was an unforgettable experience, and a little whiskey at the end didn’t hurt. John

A couple of days in Bariloche

Today we landed in Patagonia, our first stop Bariloche. A beautiful, alpine town on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, the largest of the seven lakes in this district. We cooked dinner at Cassis with the chef/owner Marianna, who despite being 8 months pregnant was a total trooper! The dining room faces out onto Lago Gutierrez and the mountains. We served a great dinner of Patagonian lamb, smoked trout, local berries. We also used herbs and vegetables from her garden, a testament to the Patagonian self reliance. She and her husband Ernesto were wonderful hosts! The next day we spent at Estancia Peuma Hue, an incredible ranch at the other side of the lake. We spent the day horseback riding, barbecuing, eating and playing futbol, it was perfect! The next morning few minutes for a choripan (sausage roll) from “The Guy”, buy some chocolate and the local craft market near the centro, and to the airport. Next stop El Calafate!

JM’s guest post

Okay, John hasn’t been describing our hotels, so I must step in. Luxe! Posh! I feel like the queen mother, but not as short or squat. Or matronly.

Hotel pools are perfect for holidays with kids, and the first day Owen barely got out of that thing. I pleaded with him: the bathtub in our corner suite was Olympic sized, couldn’t we go swim there?
Our rooms are clean and organized, despite my best efforts to destroy its elegant feel. I loved finding our shoes lined neatly together. It was fun to find our socks and underwear folded, bathingsuits hung to dry on hangers.

I won’t try to describe Buenos Aires, John’s done such a lovely job, but I must brag about the weather in Mendoza. We were introduced to the wine region by the amazing Carolin, who apologized many times that it was too hazy, the view was marred. The slight haziness meant that the Andes peaks played peekaboo with us, but also that we were spared the force of full sun in the 100 degree weather. It made touring the grounds at three beautiful wineries a breeze!

One other thing: empanada class was led by Chef Federico of La Bourgogne in Mendoza. We learned that lard is the key ingredient, and I’m willing to try that next time. And that some people can make 3 per minute! Wow. My goal is a bit lower. The class was delicious and playful both.

Alberto and Mariano of Argentina 444 are the best imaginable hosts. Primo.

A walk by the river

Tonight we saw a Vegas style tango show in the Uber hip Faena hotel, a Phillip Starck extravaganza (see photo of unicorns in the dining room!), and then a strolll along the river. The Calatrava bridge at night is spectacular! A cone of Dulce de leche helado (gelato), then to bed.

Exploring Buenos Aires

Today we started with a guided tour of BA, with stops at many historic monuments and buildings from Argentinas history. The Casa Rosada, the seat of government, Plaza de Mayo, the Metropolitan cathedral. Then a stop in La Boca, the mouth of the River Plata, settled by the Genovese, always an imigrants neighborhood, and now mostly Bolivians and Peruvians. Then lunch at La Brigada, a classic parilla restaurant, full of sports memoribilla and a favorite of futbol superstars like Maradona! In San Telmo we explored the antiques and craft market. It was very similar to marches in Paris, lots of beautiful silver, textiles, glass and posters.

Surprise!

We played a trick on Alberto with the elevator after our parilla meat fest on Friday night. I love the look on his face!

Dinner at Chila

Tonight I’m cooking at Chila, one of the best restaurants in Argentina. I met the chef, Soledad, in Seattle back in September for the Argentina 444 launch party. She spent a night in the kitchen with me, seeing what we do in Seattle. Now it’s her turn to host. We’re doing a six course menu, 3 dishes each. Originally I sent her 6 or 7 ideas, and she chose the three that would best compliment her menu and that were possible to source. The menu is below. Soledad and her team were amazing and generous, and her suckling pig was the highlight of dinner! John LOF

Chila/Lark Menu
Caldo de langostinos con pimentos, choclo y tomate (Shrimp consommé with peppers, corn and tomatoes)

Mollejas de chivito, crema de papas y limonite, brotes de menta y Jamin de Cordero (Young goat sweetbreads, potato cream, lemon, mint sprouts and lamb ham)

Mero, coliflor, alcaparras y pasas de uva (Grouper with cauliflower, capers and golden raisin)

Ravioles de conejo, morillas y caldo de coccion (Rabbit ravioli with morels and cooking broth)

Cochinella en coccion larga, matacuya, raviol de manitas, pure de echalotes (Piglet cooked for 4 hours, passion fruit, pig leg ravioli, shallot puree)

Tarta de fruitilla y mascarpone, crema de te de limon and gel de frutillas (Strawberry mascarpone tart with lemon tea custard and strawberry gel)

A day at the markets

Today I met Laura, a childhood friend of Alberto’s, and our concierge for Argentina 444. She took us to the Mercado Central, the large wholesale market on the outskirts of BA. Lots and lots of meat, cheese and Salumi. My favorite was the lechon (piglet) for sale, if only we had the wood fired oven handy! Our next stop was the Mercado Progresso, much smaller and definately a favorite of the neighborhood. We met the King of Sweetbreads at Nucho carniceria, he was very friendly and interesting, we chatted for 20 minutes about meat! We also tasted and bought ripe, juicy peaches, plums and strawberries, yum! John, LOF

First day

January 28th
Our first night in BA, after resting and cooling off in the pool, we made it out to the terrace of the Palais Duhau. It’s beautiful in an old world way, with couples strolling and lounging and dressed very elegantly even though it’s 90 degrees out still! My Bombay and tonic is extra delicious. In a few minutes we’re off to Tegui, a hot, new restaurant in the Palermo neighborhood neighborhood. After being awake for almost 36 hours I hope we can make it.

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